From: (Ann Y Ezell)
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 14:40:19 EDT
Subject:     Re: control arm bushings/ wheel bearings

Hello Frank,

	I changed the control arm bushings on my 280 and it was really
simple. The 240's must be different as mine have no "shells" to put them
into? I can offer some help on the wheel bearings though.

 I assume no liability for any damage you may cause to you or your
vehicle during the course of this operation as a result of following
these directions.


This is a MESSY PROCEDURE so expect to get greasy! Rub a little hand
cleaner on your hands to help with cleanup later.

1) Loosen the lug nuts(Do not remove yet)
2) Jack up the front of the car and support on jack stands.
3) Remove the lug nuts and the wheels.
4) Remove the caliper mounting bolts. (the ones that hold them to the
spindle hub NOT the ones that hold the calipers together)
5) Remove the brake caliper from the rotor.  Use  a piece of wire to hang
the calipers from the coil springs so you won't have to remove the brake
lines. (a coat hanger works nicely)
6) Use a large screwdriver and hammer to tap off the spindle hub cap.
7) Remove the split pins from the spindle hub and remove the nut lock.
8) Unscrew the wheel bearing retaining nut using a socket or large slip
joint pliers and remove the nut and bearing washer.
9) Pull the hub off of the spindle and remove the outer  bearing.
10) Use a large screwdriver and pry out the inner bearing grease seal.
11) Remove the inner bearing.
12) Clean the inside of the hub and the spindle thoroughly to remove any
old grease that may contain metal shavings and other contaminants.
13) Use a large punch or screwdriver and hammer out the bearing races
from the hub.(It will take some good hits to knock them out). This is
hard to describe but each must be knocked out from the rear. When you get
one out, turn the hub over and knock out the other one. DO NOT REUSE
THESE as the new bearings and tracks are factory matched. 
14 a) If you have a bearing race driver, install the new bearing races
into the hubs. DO NOT MIX THESE UP as I said before they are factory
matched units.
14 b) If you do not have a driver, take the hubs to a machine shop and
let them install the bearing races, again, being careful not to mix them
15) Re-pack the inside of the hub with a generous amount of wheel bearing
16) Pack the new wheel bearings with bearing grease. There are many ways
of doing this. I put a big dollop of grease in the palm of my hand , hold
the bearing narrow side up and 'slice' the grease with the bearing until
it comes out the top of the bearing. Turn the bearing 1/4 turn and
continue the process until it is packed completely. Repeat for all 4
17) Install the inner bearing into the hub and use a drift or a piece of
pipe to hammer the grease seal in place. (this requires much less force
than you used to hammer out the bearing races). The seal only goes in one
way so don't get it backwards. If it has an open side, that side faces
the bearing. Otherwise It should have "bearing side" printed on one side.

18) Clean and re-grease the spindle stub.
19) Clean the rotor thoroughly using solvent or soap and water. The
latter seems to be the method of choice for disc brake rotors.
20) Install the hub onto the spindle. You may have to bump it lightly
with a rubber hammer to seat the seal.
21) Install the outer bearing and bearing washer.
22) Screw the hub nut back on and tighten it while turning the hub by
hand until the hub just begins to feel a little resistance then back it
off about 1/8 turn. This is a 'feel' thing. It should be snug but not
tight. There should be no play in it when you grasp it at the top and
bottom and move it up and down. Keep in mind the nut just holds the wheel
on. The split pin keeps it from loosening and coming off.
23) Install the nut lock and a new split pin. You should not reuse the
old pin.
24) Clean, re grease and install the spindle hub cap by tapping it in
with a rubber mallet or LIGHTLY  tapping with a hammer.
25) After making sure there is no grease on the rotors, re-install the
brake calipers onto the rotors and secure them to the spindle with the
bolts. (Apply some  anti-seize compound to the threads so that you can
more easily remove them next time).
26) Torque the bolts to specs. (about 70ft/lbs)
27) Re-install the wheels and snug the lug nuts.
28) Remove the jack stands and jack the car down.
28) Tighten the lug nuts.

	I had to do this last week so the PROCEDURE was still fresh in my
mind. Sorry I couldn't be of more help with the control arm problem.

Good Luck,

IZCC #2034
'78 280 "mint"