From: "Al Powell"
Organization: TAMU Agricultural Communications
To: z-car@taex001.tamu.edu
Date sent: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:42:33 CDT
Subject: <280zx> Keeper: Dash Removal
In response to the recent question about RF speaker work, I thought
I'd post this. The RF speaker in a ZX just might be accessible thru
the glove box hole, but I'm not sure it will work....
KEEPER - DASH REMOVAL PROCEDURE: 79-83 ZX
I have removed the dash numerous times in 82 and 83 ZX models.
Thought I'd post this...can't find my original post in my archives.
NOTE: The steering wheel should be removed. It makes the process
much simpler.
"Par time" to remove dash and steering wheel is @2 hours first time,
@75 minutes thereafter. Re-installing is about 1 hour longer.
Special tools:
Steering wheel puller
#2 (large tip) Philips screwdriver (optional)
Large metric socket to fit shaft nut on steering wheel.
Steps:
1) Remove kick panels in both footwells. Store panels and screws.
Remove trim around radio and A/C center vents, storing all screws and
trim pieces.
2) Protect the center console with a shop rag to avoid scratching it
during the next step.
3) Remove radio console, complete. This starts with small plastic
triangular panels on the lower sides of radio console (1 screw each) then
four bolts each side, two top, two bottom, on each side of console.
Turn the bolts one turn with a rachet, then use a #2 screwdriver to
remove them. It's faster. Unclip all electrical & antenna connections.
4) Lift out radio console; store out of the way.
5) Look under A/C control box and you will find two screws thru
the dash into the console. Remove these with a stubby Philips and
store them.
6) Remove glove box door and inner box. Store the screws. (Memory
tells me this is necessary but I don't recall why. Don't do it if you
don't need to....)
7) Remove steering wheel with following procedure: (Disconnect
battery first unless you mind blowing the horn a few times.....) There
are two screws holding on trim on the back (dash) side of your steering
wheel. Remove them with a stubby Philips. Remove soft cap from
center of steering wheel (it goes back on with pressing and
fiddling) and remove center assembly. You will see one wire coming
out of the shaft and screwed to the wheel. That's the horn.
Disconnect and don't short to ground or you get noise!
MEMORY IS A BIT VAGUE HERE -
but I recall you don't have to take all the trim on the center of the
wheel off. Check it out. Your goal is to loosen the large nut on the
shaft, MARK THE WHEEL AND STEERING SHAFT (if not already marked)
SO YOU CAN PUT IT BACK IN THE SAME POSITION!; loosen the nut but
leave it on the end of the shaft and mount your steering wheel puller on
he nut, using the two threaded holes in the wheel for the puller's support
bolts. Tighten puller until wheel pops loose; then remove puller, remove
large nut and wheel; store parts in safe place and don't scuff up the wheel.
NOTE: Some listers say they can loosen the bolts under the dash which hold
the steering column in place and remove the dash without removing the wheel.
Check this out if you wish.....
8) Remove upper and lower plastic steering wheel trim from steering
column behind the wheel. Various screws are involved, all of which
are standard Philips head.
9) Remove the connections from the turn signal assy. and
loosen the large screw which clamps it on to the shaft. Pull
outwards GENTLY until you can drop it down and out of your way. Now
you have all the obstacles cleared. NOTE: when re-installing the
turn signal assy. it's easy to push it TOO far on the shaft. Check
the location closely, looking at the hole in the shaft housing where
the clamp tip locates, and be patient - you will get it located correctly.
10) Reach under dash and disconnect speedometer cable at the
connection in the center of the cable - usually the housing connection
is hand-tight.
11) Remove all electrical connections to dash. These are ALL located
on the passenger side above the footwell - they're color coded and
multi-pin connectors. If in doubt - you'll find out which are the
necessary ones when the dash comes loose.
12) Remove four flat plastic plugs on top of the dash, exposing the
top screws. Leave these screws till last.
13) Remove four large screws across the bottom of the dash. These
are readily visible - two are located immediately next to the radio
console, two further outboard.
14) Remove the four screws across the top of the dash. IT'S READY
TO COME OUT! Double-check electricals and speedometer cable.
15) This can be done by one person, but is sometimes easier with
two...wiggle dash and lift slightly, pulling toward you. It will
come loose when you lift it out of the support notches on the
brackets which the lower four bolts screwed into.
16) Remove dash, trying not to scratch up the trim on each side of
the windshield. Some lifting and wiggling is required.
17) Look over such neat stuff as heater controls, cables, etc.
Replace or adjust now to avoid doing this later.
To re-install dash is the reverse of removal - BUT be careful to
locate the speedometer cable correctly! There's a body brace under
the dash which it can go above or below. I recall that below is
correct. As soon as the dash is in place, CHECK THE SPEEDO CABLE
FIRST. If you located it incorrectly, you'd better pull the dash
back out far enough to get it right BEFORE you get everything
else connected!
NOTE: make sure to locate the steering wheel on the splined hub correctly
to keep it centered.