From:             "Al Powell" 
Organization:      TAMU Agricultural Communications
Date sent:                 Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:42:33 CDT
Subject:                <280zx>  Keeper: Dash Removal

In response to the recent question about RF speaker work, I thought 
I'd post this.  The RF speaker in a ZX  just might be accessible thru 
the glove box hole, but I'm not sure it will work....


I have removed the dash numerous times in 82 and 83 ZX models. 
Thought I'd post this...can't find my original post in my archives.

NOTE:  The steering wheel should be removed.  It makes the process 
much simpler.

"Par time" to remove dash and steering wheel is @2 hours first time, 
@75 minutes thereafter. Re-installing is about 1 hour longer.  

Special tools:
Steering wheel puller
#2 (large tip) Philips screwdriver (optional)
Large metric socket to fit shaft nut on steering wheel.


1)  Remove kick panels in both footwells.  Store panels and screws.  
Remove trim around radio and A/C center vents, storing all screws and 
trim pieces.

2)  Protect the center console with a shop rag to avoid scratching it 
during the next step.

3)  Remove radio console, complete.  This starts with small plastic
triangular panels on the lower sides of radio console (1 screw each) then 
four bolts each side, two top, two bottom, on each side of console.  
Turn the bolts one turn with a rachet, then use a #2 screwdriver to 
remove them.  It's faster.  Unclip all electrical & antenna connections.

4)  Lift out radio console; store out of the way.

5)  Look under A/C control box and you will find two screws thru 
the dash into the console.  Remove these with a stubby Philips and 
store them.

6)  Remove glove box door and inner box.  Store the screws.  (Memory 
tells me this is necessary but I don't recall why.  Don't do it if you 
don't need to....)

7)  Remove steering wheel with following procedure: (Disconnect 
battery first unless you mind blowing the horn a few times.....)  There 
are two screws holding on trim on the back (dash)  side of your steering 
wheel.  Remove them with a stubby Philips.  Remove soft cap from 
center of steering wheel (it goes back on with pressing and 
fiddling) and remove center assembly.  You will see one wire coming 
out of the shaft and screwed to the wheel.  That's the horn.  
Disconnect and don't short to ground or you get noise!

but I recall you don't have to take all the trim on the center of the 
wheel off.  Check it out.  Your goal is to loosen the large nut on the 
shaft, MARK THE WHEEL AND STEERING SHAFT (if not already marked) 
leave it on the end of the shaft and mount your steering wheel puller on 
he nut, using the two threaded holes in the wheel for the puller's support 
bolts.  Tighten puller until wheel pops loose; then remove puller, remove 
large nut and wheel; store parts in safe place and don't scuff up the wheel. 

NOTE: Some listers say they can loosen the bolts under the dash which hold 
the steering column in place and remove the dash without removing the wheel. 
Check this out if you wish.....

8)  Remove upper and lower plastic steering wheel trim from steering 
column behind the wheel.  Various screws are involved, all of which 
are standard Philips head.

9)  Remove the connections from the turn signal assy. and 
loosen the large screw which clamps it on to the shaft.  Pull 
outwards GENTLY until you can drop it down and out of your way.  Now 
you have all the obstacles cleared.  NOTE: when re-installing the 
turn signal assy. it's easy to push it TOO far on the shaft.  Check 
the location closely, looking at the hole in the shaft housing where 
the clamp tip locates, and be patient - you will get it located correctly.

10)  Reach under dash and disconnect speedometer cable at the 
connection in the center of the cable - usually the housing connection 
is hand-tight.

11)  Remove all electrical connections to dash.  These are ALL located 
on the passenger side above the footwell - they're color coded and 
multi-pin connectors.  If in doubt - you'll find out which are the 
necessary ones when the dash comes loose.

12)  Remove four flat plastic plugs on top of the dash, exposing the 
top screws.  Leave these screws till last.

13)  Remove four large screws across the bottom of the dash.   These 
are readily visible - two are located immediately next  to the radio 
console, two further outboard.

14)  Remove the four screws across the top of the dash.  IT'S READY 
TO COME OUT!  Double-check electricals and speedometer cable.

15)  This can be done by one person, but is sometimes easier with 
two...wiggle dash and lift slightly, pulling toward you.  It will 
come loose when you lift it out of the support notches on the 
brackets which the lower four bolts screwed into.

16)  Remove dash, trying not to scratch up the trim on each side of 
the windshield.  Some lifting and wiggling is required. 

17)  Look over such neat stuff as heater controls, cables, etc.  
Replace or adjust now to avoid doing this later.

To re-install dash is the reverse of removal - BUT be careful to 
locate the speedometer cable correctly!  There's a body brace under 
the dash which it can go above or below.  I recall that below is 
correct.  As soon as the dash is in place, CHECK THE SPEEDO CABLE 
FIRST.  If you located it incorrectly, you'd better pull the dash 
back out far enough to get it right BEFORE you get everything 
else connected!

NOTE: make sure to locate the steering wheel on the splined hub correctly 
to keep it centered.