From:                 Self 
Subject:           <280ZX> 83 ZXT F.I. hose replacement (LONG)
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Date sent:            Fri, 8 Nov 1996 12:55:53

Since there has just been discussion about changing FI hoses on the 
ZX model, here is my archived post/procedure:

Having just gone thru a two-evening process of replacing the hoses on
my 83 ZXT fuel injectors - to AVOID replacing the injectors themselves - I
offer the following LONG post for this list - and for the archives.
My thanks to Mark Sayer for suggesting the alternative of doing the
hoses alone, not the injectors.



With thanks to Marc Sayer, her's one for the archives:  How to
replace the hoses connecting leaky fuel injectors to the fuel rail
without replacing the injectors themselves.  Mr. Marc opines that
most of the time, it's the hoses leaking, not the injectors

This is at least a four hour job the first time.  More likely 6+

Before you begin, make sure you have TWO FEET OF 90+ PSI
VERY hard to find, but DO NOT let anyone sell you standard 50
psi rated fuel hose.  Your FI system can put out more than 50 psi,
so this is not adequate.  When you go looking for hose, NO one
will know whatindaheck you're talking about.  If you talk "fuel
injector hose" to auto parts stores, they may be able to help.

I found the hose at a NAPA parts store, $11 for two feet, NAPA
part number H202.  (YIKES!!)  Marc recommends using the same
stainless clamps Nissan used on the rail end of the hoses.  This is
fine, but they're $2.50 each and are hard to re-use, as they (1) tend
to jam when re-tightening and (2) cannot open any wider to
accommodate a larger hose then the original.  If you buy a large
OD hose, the factory clamps will NOT work.  Get your clamps
*before* you buy the hose and make sure they are compatible!!  I
ended up using six new Nissan clamps and six generic-type hose

To begin: release pressure in the fuel lines by disconnecting the
fuel pump while the car is idling.  the connector is found under the
back cargo pad, forward and slightly to the right of center.  Your
manual will show the location - but it's laying in the open and
snaps apart.  The car will idle for a few seconds, then die as fuel
runs out.

Disconnect everything in your way.  This will include the
large-hose PCV connection to the top center of the valve cover,
and misc. vacuum lines.  You will also need to disconnect your
spark plug wires and get them out of the way.  Be sure to number
or otherwise ID the wires.  You may find it most convenient to
remove the cap and wires entirely just to get them out of the way.

Here's a trick: to number plug wires at either end, use the plastic
snap-on tabs which are used to close bread wrappers.  Write a wire
number on the tab with a fine-point permanent marker and snap
over the plug wire.  They can be re-used almost forever.  This is
real handy when doing ignition work requiring you to disconnect
wires.  (Thanks for the idea, dad!!)

You will need to disconnect two fuel lines and one cooling line on
the right front of the engine.  The fuel hoses are hard to get off
because they are the same material as the FI hoses, and very stiff.
Be patient.  One hose will leak gas and must be plugged with a
spare bolt when's sneaky and may not leak at first,
but it will eventually!!  The cooling line will spout water and must
also be plugged after being disconnected.

There is one bolt on the right front corner of the engine which
holds the fuel lines and coolant line in place; remove this.  (When
re-installing, put this bolt in before you re-attach the hoses; when
attached to the lines, the hoses tend to pull the bracket holes out
of alignment with the bolt hole and make it tough to re-install!)

PROBLEM: you will find there is a stud on the top left corner of
the engine's front which holds the fuel and cooling lines in place.
It also holds the top of the PS belt tensioner in place.  Here's the
work sequence:

1)  Using a 14mm socket, loosen the nut in the front of the PS
*idler pulley*.  This allows the pulley to move.
2)  Using the tensioner bolt, slack the PS belt enough to remove it
from the pulley.  (Hey, now you know how to adjust the belt
tension!!  No extra charge...)
3)  Remove the nut from the stud, and remove the lower left bolt
which holds the tensioner to the block.  Loosen the third tensioner
bolt but do not remove it; this will allow enough slack to move the
tensioner off the stud.
4)  Find a second nut which will go onto the stud; lock the two nuts
together firmly and use them to turn the stud out of the block.
Now the lines are free.

Remove the three bolts (two are small and easily visible, the third
is a large bolt which doubles as an intake manifold bolt) which
hold the fuel rail in place.

Remove the three small bolts which hold the valve body (the round
thingie with a vacuum line going to it) in place in the center of the
fuel rail; you must be able to move it to get at the injector
underneath.  I found that I had to remove one (the upper and easier
to reach) of the two fuel hoses attached to it, and was then able to
move it enough to work underneath it.

Now the rail SHOULD be loose enough to wiggle slightly.  If not,
look around and find out what I've forgotten - or what is different
on your car.

To disconnect the FI electrical connections can be tricky.  I used a
fine-point scratch awl on the very tips of the metal clips to push
them out far enough that I could get a fine point under them and
remove them by prying outward.  In this process, I found it's
almost impossible to avoid breaking off a tiny plastic retaining tab
which holds the center-back of each clip in place.  These plastic
pieces get old and brittle, and I don't have a solution for this.  I
just pried carefully and made sure not to lose the metal clips.  Once the
clips are off, the connector pulls off easily.  WARNING: these
connectors are VERY brittle.  Keep them out of your way while
prying and working, because if you push against one, it will shatter
and you'll be buying a replacement!

The following procedure is offered because it's not what I did - and
in retrospect, it would have been easier and maybe saved some of
the stainless clamps for re-use.  I took the clamps off, cut the
metal hose-crimp rings, then cut the hoses and removed the fuel rail.  I
think the following will work better....

To get the old hoses off :

1)  Loosen FI hose clamps and slide down toward injector.  (If you
don't have to open them up and remove them, they may work better
on re-assembly.  Your call.)
2)  Using a very sharp knife or industrial-type razor blade, slit the
hoses where they contact the fuel rail.  You are NOT going to be
able to pull this fuel rail off without doing this - the hoses are
much too stiff and aggressive in their hold.  Don't worry too much 
aboutscratching the fuel rail - it's hard enough that you would have to
carve HARD to damage it.
3)  Peel back the hoses and pull the fuel rail out of them.  It won't
go far because of things which restrict its movement, but you can
get it loose.
4)  Slide the stainless clamps off over the hose ends.
5)  Using SHARP diagonal cutters, snip through the soft metal
crimp rings which hold the bottom of the hoses in place.  These are
softer than is apparent, and cut fairly easily.  If you keep working
the cutters down further into the rings, you can cut them in half.
6)  Remove the metal rings and using a sharp knife or razor blade,
slice through the bottom half of the hoses where they go over the
fuel injector inlets.  NOTE: although the body of the injector is
Bakelite, the inlets are metal!  They have two aggressive barbs to
hold the hose in place.  Again, you don't have to baby them - you
can keep cutting till they're off.  You would REALLY have to hack
on one before you would scratch it enough to cause any damage.
7)  Remove the hoses.

Then cut your new hose sections to length and slide them onto the
FI inlets.  A few drops of WD-40 inside the hose will help to
lubricate the hose.  You WILL have to push hard!!  I used the butt
end of a screwdriver to push on them until they were fully seated.

When installing the clamps, think carefully about where to point
the screws; consider what you'll have to work around if you need
to tighten them AFTER you get the fuel rail back in place!!

After hoses are in place, install bottom clamps; then slide the
clamps for the hose tops over the hoses, lubricate inside-tops of
hoses with WD-40 and press the fuel rail into the hoses.  Use the
clean marks on the rail for a reference on how far in to press.  You
will have to work back and forth to do this - those hoses are stiff
enough that it takes some work to press the fuel rail into them.

Tighten clamps, re-install bolts, etc. etc.  No particular tricks
goingback together except to re-install the stud on front of the engine
and the bolt on the right front corner before re-connecting the fuel
and cooling hoses on the right front corner.

When all is secure, turn key on and let the fuel pump work; turn
engine over for a couple of seconds; let fuel pump work again;
repeat until it starts.  The injectors will self-prime.

Idle the car for a while; check for leaks.  Clean up hands, etc. and
take on a short drive, then check again for leaks.

Final steps:
Clean up tools
Doctor cuts on hands
Get cold beer outa refrigerator; ENJOY!

ADDENDUM From: Marc Sayer 

Geeze that's expensive hose. :-( I can get the pushlock stuff for lots
less than that. It is so common I thought you would have no problem
finding it. Based on Al's dificulty and the price he had to pay for what
he got, I will start selling the hose I use, as a convenience to folks. If
folks want they can get it from me from now on, just ask for the 5/16" FI
hose, and I will supply the right stuff. Its only $1.15/ft. Its rated at
250-300 psi.

Also I have never had much trouble with the clamps, but I do keep every
clamp I take off an FI car, so I have lots of them. Most of the time
these clamps are reuseable. So it sounds like I need to start stockpiling
these for folks too. The regular worm clamps work fine but I prefer the
stock clamps, its not a big deal and I certainly wouldn't pay $2.50 for
one, but they do look better and are easier on hoses. Anybody else out
there have a stock pile of these little gems (or an FI car their parting
out that they would be willing to scrounge them off of)?