From: David Piper 
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 13:40:47 -0400
Subject:     Re: valve stem seal replacement?

>A while back a thread was started about replacing the valve stem seals
>on L6 engines.  I saved the posts but my wonderful Eudora mail program
>keeps corrupting them.  I would appreciate if someone could summarize
>the procedure.  I bough the OEM seals and would like to replace them
>prior to the convention.  I will be using compresed air to pressurize
>the cylinder.

Purchase some replacement valve stem seals from Motorsport Auto.  Tell
Sal to send you the brown viton seals.  Obtain a 5 foot length of
nylon tight weave or polypropylene rope and the KD valve spring
removal tool.  This tool is a lever arm with a hook near one end that
goes under the cam to act as a fulcrum for the lever arm.  At the same
end is the spring foot which compresses the valve spring.  Get a
scribe with a magnetic tip on the eraser end.  Read the shop manual to
fully understand the valve train components and the overhead cam

Disconnect the battery and remove the valve cover and plugs and place
in neutral gear.  Rotate the cam to bring Cyl 1 up to TDC with the
valves closed (observe both cam lobes off their rockers, sic).  Remove
the rocker using a screwdriver as a lever against the retainer and the
cam as the fulcrum.  Stuff as much of the rope (3 feet) into the
chamber through the spark plug hole as possible.  Use a 1/4" flat
blade screwdriver to pack the rope as you go.  This will prevent the
valves from opening when your compress the spring, so try to wedge as
much of the rope as you can into the chamber as this will make the
spring removal much easier.

While pushing down on the tool, compress the spring enough to remove
the keepers with the magnet.  Release the tool and remove the springs
with the retainer.  Now you have access to the guide and seal.  Remove
the seal with a flat blade wedged underneath the seal where it fits
over the guide.  Check for excessive guide wear by rocking the guide
along the major axis (perpindicular to the crank) with the valve
barely off its seat.  You should observe no more than 1/32" stem tip

Replace the seal using finger pressure to seat the seal completely on
the guide.  The seal should pop into place.  There is a groove in the
guide and a ring on the seal to lock it onto the guide.  Be carefull
not to nick the lip seal on the top of the seal when slipping the seal
onto the valve.  The valve keeper groove near the stem tip usually
wears to a sharp edge which can tear the seal lip if you're not
careful.  Prelube the seal and valve stem with motor oil and gently
rock the seal while exerting light pressure to force the seal over the
retainer groove.  Replace the spring assy with retainer by compressing
the spring with the tool while reinstalling the keepers using a needle
nose pliers.  This is tedious; you may need a helper, but its better
than pulling the head!  Be careful near the end valves to prevent the
keepers getting lost down the oil drain hole or the chain.  Proceed to
the next cylinder.

Less Maintenance, More Performance.