From: David Piper
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 13:40:47 -0400 Subject: Re: valve stem seal replacement? >A while back a thread was started about replacing the valve stem seals >on L6 engines. I saved the posts but my wonderful Eudora mail program >keeps corrupting them. I would appreciate if someone could summarize >the procedure. I bough the OEM seals and would like to replace them >prior to the convention. I will be using compresed air to pressurize >the cylinder. Purchase some replacement valve stem seals from Motorsport Auto. Tell Sal to send you the brown viton seals. Obtain a 5 foot length of nylon tight weave or polypropylene rope and the KD valve spring removal tool. This tool is a lever arm with a hook near one end that goes under the cam to act as a fulcrum for the lever arm. At the same end is the spring foot which compresses the valve spring. Get a scribe with a magnetic tip on the eraser end. Read the shop manual to fully understand the valve train components and the overhead cam design. Disconnect the battery and remove the valve cover and plugs and place in neutral gear. Rotate the cam to bring Cyl 1 up to TDC with the valves closed (observe both cam lobes off their rockers, sic). Remove the rocker using a screwdriver as a lever against the retainer and the cam as the fulcrum. Stuff as much of the rope (3 feet) into the chamber through the spark plug hole as possible. Use a 1/4" flat blade screwdriver to pack the rope as you go. This will prevent the valves from opening when your compress the spring, so try to wedge as much of the rope as you can into the chamber as this will make the spring removal much easier. While pushing down on the tool, compress the spring enough to remove the keepers with the magnet. Release the tool and remove the springs with the retainer. Now you have access to the guide and seal. Remove the seal with a flat blade wedged underneath the seal where it fits over the guide. Check for excessive guide wear by rocking the guide along the major axis (perpindicular to the crank) with the valve barely off its seat. You should observe no more than 1/32" stem tip deflection. Replace the seal using finger pressure to seat the seal completely on the guide. The seal should pop into place. There is a groove in the guide and a ring on the seal to lock it onto the guide. Be carefull not to nick the lip seal on the top of the seal when slipping the seal onto the valve. The valve keeper groove near the stem tip usually wears to a sharp edge which can tear the seal lip if you're not careful. Prelube the seal and valve stem with motor oil and gently rock the seal while exerting light pressure to force the seal over the retainer groove. Replace the spring assy with retainer by compressing the spring with the tool while reinstalling the keepers using a needle nose pliers. This is tedious; you may need a helper, but its better than pulling the head! Be careful near the end valves to prevent the keepers getting lost down the oil drain hole or the chain. Proceed to the next cylinder. TurboDave Less Maintenance, More Performance.