Contributed By: James Thagard
James is currently a Ph.D Candidate at FSU College of Engineering
and can be reached via E-Mail just click here: To James Thagard
Last Up-dated: 11 Aug. 99..
1. Remove your gauge from behind the dash. You can loosen either of the 2 bolts that secure the gauge into the dash. Some cars use a phillips head bolt while others I have seen use an 8mm head bolt to secure the gauge.
2. Once the gauge is removed, you are ready to begin. Remove the 2 screws that hold on the front cover of the gauge. We will call this the "factory face plate." With the "factory face plate" off, remove the glass from within, a light tap with a hammer takes it out every time. Now, place your Autometer 2-5/8" gauge into the front of the "factory face plate." Use the "U" bracket and finger nuts that are provided with the Autometer gauge and secure the gauge to the "factory face plate" from behind the gauge.
3. We will call the back half of the factory gauge the "gauge housing." Remove all the contents from within the "gauge housing", this includes the green plastic piece that illumates the gauges. Next, take a 2.5" metal hole saw and cut a hole in the back of the "gauge housing." This will allow the "U" bracket and finger bolts to clear the "gauge housing."
4. You can use the factory connectors that were wired up to the water temp and fuel gauge for your new autometer gauge. I also cut the connectors from within the dash to connect to the gauge. I just ran my own wires from my connector to the water temp gauge and fuel sender in my fuel cell.
5. Now, assemble the "gauge housing" to the "factory face plate" with the 2 small screws and your are in business to bolt it back up!
Here are pictures to give an example of what I mean!
You can see the hole cut into
the back of the "gauge housing."
Here is a good view of using
the factory connector for wiring up the Autometer gauge.
Here is the final product!
Gauges bolt in as easy as they came out. They give a nice clean
appearance as if they came that way from the factory.